Exploring circular economy principles and ethics among upcyclers of secondhand clothing at Kantamanto Accra, Ghana

Abstract

The study explored circular economy principles and ethics among upcyclers of secondhand clothing at Kantamanto Market in Accra, Ghana. A qualitative case study design was adopted, with 20 upcyclers selected through purposive sampling. Data were collected through semi-structured interviews and participant observation and analysed using thematic analysis. The findings revealed that upcyclers practised a context-driven form of circularity characterised by material-led design, market-mediated creativity, client-centred co-creation, material reuse, waste minimisation and commitment to product quality and longevity. Innovative practices included creative material transformation, zero-waste design, repair, alteration and the reuse of garment components. Ethical concerns centred on poor-quality and unsanitary secondhand clothing imports, described as waste colonialism, alongside challenges involving fair treatment, client relationships and material integrity. Upcyclers addressed these concerns through collaborative waste diversion, responsible material choices, fair working relationships and preventative design practices. However, limited finance, technology, infrastructure and poor-quality textile imports constrained their activities. The study concludes that Kantamanto demonstrates a context-driven model of circular fashion shaped by local knowledge, creativity and collaborative networks. Thus, the study recommends stronger import regulation, improved textile waste infrastructure, accessible financial and technological support, skills development and formal recognition of local circular design knowledge to strengthen Ghana’s circular fashion industry.